Walk in Africa

The ultimate day

2010-02-25T09:08:00.015+02:00

There is ongoing debate as to whether day 4 or day 5 of The Mountains in The Sea is the more breathtaking. It’s a tough call. Have a look at this photo taken on day 5, and formulate your own opinion.

We started the trail above “Patience Bay” with views onto - and memories of - yesterday’s descent.

In spite of the (very easy) ascent Ken still had a smile, and so did everyone else.

Perhaps the smiles had something to do with the views that greeted us at every turn.

We eventually made it back down to sea-level – and a very beautiful sea-level it was.

But we weren’t the only Simians walking on the beach that day.

I love this photo of an “inter-specific inter-section”. It seems artistically staged, with the two groups representing different primate families going in opposite directions and metaphorically separated by a sinuous line of kelp.

I like this photo too. It’s amazing that none of the players in this scene acknowledges the existence of the other species. It’s as if they are denying that the other exists! Do we deny the ape in ourselves? Yes, I think we do.

Enough esoteric philosophizing . . . Soon we were on the rocky shores headed for a very special ascent.

This is what it looked like on the way up.

And this is what it looked like from the top.

Then it was just the small matter of getting up and over the never-ending hill.

And finally we could enjoy the bubbly.

Stunning....continued

2010-02-22T10:56:00.006+02:00

My apologies for the long hiatus in the blog of the epic trail of Ken, Linda, Gordon and Judy. I have been away training San (bushman) youngsters aspiring to become guides. Yes – the irony of a white man of Eastern European ancestry training bushmen how to track animals is not lost on me. This is simply another indictment on our species . . . but the story of the training is material for a separate posting. So, back to the epic walk. You will recall that everyone had been spelling very badly in semaphores and we captured some fine portraits. Then Kili found the cutest little baby Angulate Tortoise.

After that it was time to tackle the most spectacular descent imaginable. As we started, a light mist, formed from moist air rising off False Bay, was lifted up the knife-edge and condensed.

But then the mist cleared, revealing unbelievably beautiful scenery.

In the distance our final destination was visible . . . but that is a story for our next posting.

S stunning

2010-02-12T10:59:00.012+02:00

What a day! I’m not sure how I can limit this posting to just a few pictures . . . so I may have to do two postings for the one walk. It was just too much fun and too beautiful to fit into one short post.

Kili was determined to look handsome and so assumed a pose on every prominent rock.

The ascent from Simonstown was much easier than everyone had been led to believe. And once at the top, the views improved all day. Here the Atlantic Ocean and False Bay (influenced by the Indian Ocean) are both clearly visible on either side of the Peninsula.

And then the ascent did become a little steep. At this point we are more than 1,875 feet above the sea.

The team decided it was time to send a semaphore message – and as you can see they quite clearly spelled “RUY” and then Linda requested annulment of this “word”. It was time that we overcame differences in accent and tried communicating verbally because I didn’t understand “RUY” and anyway Linda was determined (symbolically – that is) that the message should be cancelled.

Eventually it was explained to me that they were copying the Beatles off their immortal (unlike poor John) album called “HELP”. Well if you are not too young, you will probably be aware that on that album cover The Beatles were desperately signalling the word “NUJV”!
It is really not surprising that Linda, Ken, Judy & Gordon didn’t receive any HELP. In fact it is not surprising that John, Paul, George & Ringo didn’t receive any either!

Tomorrow we will be having spelling lessons instead of walking.

We did get some smashing (they use that word in Rutland – don’t they?) portraits:

A rainy day

2010-02-11T09:47:00.007+02:00

Cape Town is known for it’s unpredictable and changing weather and we certainly experienced it today. Yesterday we walked in 30C weather (86F for those of you still stuck in the 19th century) with cloudless skies. We (most of us) were awoken at 04h30 by a very loud electric storm. By the time we started walking across the gorgeous Noordhoek Beach, the rain had abated but the weather was cool.

We continued to the wreck of the Kakopo and beyond. Ken was so happy that he threw all his collected feathers into the air and grinned like a child! In the picture below, the wreck is visible in the background . . . and so is Chapman’s Peak (covered in cloud).

Not much later the sun emerged and the temperature soared, tempting insects into activity. We found this beautiful, but dangerous, Blister Beetle feeding on a Roella flower. When disturbed these beetles produce a nasty defensive secretion which causes skin blistering.

By the time we stopped for lunch the sun had been replaced by thick mist and a chill wind, and fleeces appeared miraculously. Soon thereafter rain begin to fall and the colourful apparel followed . . .

Our last surprise before descending into the historical town of Simonstown, was a Golden Orb Spider on her web. These beautiful spiders produce an extremely strong silk – as strong as Kevlar.

Wish you were here

2010-02-10T10:07:00.008+02:00

Contrary to weather forecasts, Tuesday was very hot. And the walk was extremely long.

It didn’t take long before we were looking down onto Hout Bay and the Sentinel.

We ate lunch in a shady spot with exquisite views onto the Bay as well as onto Chapman’s Peak in the cloud.

We walked on with dramatic cliffs behind us.

At the Col Gordon and Judy decided to descend, with Anele and Kyla showing them the way. The rest of us continued up Chapman’s Peak. Just before the top we were approximately 590 metres directly above the sea.

Finally we summited in perfect weather.

The descent was just as magnificent as the views from above.

It was a picture-perfect day and here is the picture to prove it!

Table Mountain in the mist

2010-02-10T09:52:00.003+02:00

I was unable to guide Monday’s walk up Table Mountain. In spite of misty weather fine views were enjoyed and Ann MacGregor pointedout some very special flowers, including our provincial flower The Red Disa. As is apparent from the photograph this flower is an orchid species.

They also saw the incongruously delicate Gladiolus carneus – "the painted lady".

Everyone in the party did very well and enjoyed a grand meal at Buitenverwachting that evening.

I must go down to the sea again

2010-02-01T08:34:00.008+02:00

No – it’s not the famous one by John Masefield. . . I was thinking more about Spike Milligan’s immortal lines:

"I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky; I left my shoes and socks there - I wonder if they're dry?"

Which are in fact more appropriate lines for our stroll on Buffels Bay Beach at the Spring high-tide on Friday!

In all honesty, though, on this fifth and last day of walking I did think of paraphrasing the bard:

Once more onto the beach, dear friends, once more;
Or end the walk with our English dead!
In the office there's nothing so becomes a man
As modest stillness and humility:
But when the blast of walking blows in our ears,
The sinews will stiffen, the blood will be summoned,

Let pry through the camera lens
Almost swall'd with the wild and wasteful ocean.

On, on, you noblest English.
Have in these parts from morn till even trudged
Dishonour not your mothers; now attest
That those whom you call'd fathers did beget you.
Be copy now to men of grosser blood,
And teach them how to walk

And you, good yeoman,
Whose limbs were made in England, show us here
The mettle of your pasture; let us swear
That you are worth your breeding; which I doubt not;
For there is none of you who cannot make it to The Cape
On the first day I saw you stand like greyhounds in the slips,
Straining upon the start. The game's a foot!
Follow your spirit, and upon this charge
Cry 'To Cape of Good Hope . . . and beyond’

Poetry aside . . . the walk was magnificent.

We were also extremely fortunate to watch a small group of Klipspringers for 30 minutes. We saw Bontebok as well and a large herd of Eland.

Eventually with “stiffened sinews” we reached Cape Point and celebrated with some natural painkillers.

The high road and the low road

2010-01-29T11:08:00.005+02:00

Today Stuart & Anele took the low road while Lysanne, Kili & I took the high road, so I can only comment on the high road . . . and I think that the pictures below showing the scenery will save a lot of commenting. . .

I like this photo of Lysanne taken at the top of Swartkop. In the background you can see Table Mountain, Devil’s Peak, Constantiaberg, Chapman’s Peak, Steenberg and Elsies Peak!

This photo was also taken at the top of Swartkop, but looking east across False Bay toward the Kogelberg and to Hangklip 32 km away.

Kili did his damnedest to look handsome on the mountain.

But he had serious competition from the Protea speciosa!

(Beach) Snakes alive!

2010-01-28T11:45:00.009+02:00

Lysanne & Stuart certainly looked well fed this morning when I arrived to collect them – and a little reluctant to depart the House at Pooh Corner.

I eventually got them onto the beach and we started walking. Lysanne decided to do a little “paddling” and quickly discovered that the water on the Atlantic Coast comes directly from Antartica – she was wishing that she was in the North Sea instead!

We all agreed that the walk across the beach was pretty damn beautiful. In the photo below you can see the Sentinel, Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak (Lysanne’s nemesis).

Imagine our surprise when we found a Puff Adder (Bitis arietans) on the beach, just above the surf line. This extremely dangerous snake is responsible for more fatalities than any other snake species in southern Africa, but it is not known for it’s fondness of surfing! So finding one here was most unusual. It was also a potentially dangerous situation. Many people walk along the beach, often with their dogs. There was little doubt that either the snake was going to be killed, or a canine or human passer-by was going to be bitten. So our expedition came to a halt while I moved the reptile to the scrub above the beach.

It was a good day for reptiles, because later we found a large male Angulate Tortoise (Chersina angulata). These guys have an extended plastron (the lower part of the shell) which forms a lever. This lever is used in combat between competing males in order to flip the opponent onto his back – tortoise wrestling.

Just as fascinating was this incredibly well camouflaged Phasmid (Stick Insect).

Its colours were perfectly matched to the most common restio growing in the area – right down to the “nodes” mimicked on its body.

After all this adventure Simonstown was a welcome destination.

First Mountains in the Sea for 2010

2010-01-27T08:41:00.009+02:00

On their first day on The Mountains in the Sea trail, Stuart & Lysanne learnt just how changeable the weather in Cape Town can be. They started their epic walk in fine weather but by the time they had reached the summit at Maclears Beacon, the mist was thick and the visibility was poor. As a result we have no photographic evidence that they actually summitted Table Mountain!

However, day two was pretty close to a perfect day – great visibility and not too hot. They clearly appreciated it!

The flowers were fantastic. Have a look at this beautiful wild hibiscus (Hibiscus aethiopicus).

. . . and these exquisite ninepin heaths (Erica Mammosa)

The scenery was spectacular. In the picture below you can see Chapman’s Peak in the background. You’ll have to ask Lysanne about Chapman’s Peak . . . because my camera batteries died before we arrived there.

Big Country

2009-12-02T10:59:00.009+02:00

That afternoon we drove north, in the rain, to the Algeria Parks Headquarters and slept in a lovely old farmhouse below the Uitkyk Pass. Miraculously the following day was a perfect day for walking – cool and clear, and we began our ascent up through Die Gat (The Hole) to Grootland (Big Country). It was a beautiful but rather steep ascent.

We emerged on the plateau below the Grootland Peak, surrounded by eroded rock sculptures and peaks.

Just through the nek (saddle/col) we saw the area called Grootland. It is an enormous field of green bisected by streams and surrounded by massifs including one mysteriously called Groot Hartseer (great heart-sore). As we walked through Grootland three Klipspringers came running past us and we obtained excellent views. Klipspringers are diminutive agile antelope that are adapted to living in rocky areas.

The Cederberg is named for the endemic and endangered Clanwilliam Cedar Tree (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis). In this part of the mountain range these trees are still present and we passed through a few small forests of the species. However there are sadly also many old skeletons of trees that had died.

We stopped for yet another delicious and nutritious lunch made by Carla.

And then we made our way past the Middelberg Peaks and down the mountain. We paused to admire the waterfall, which is normally very impressive, but on this day was an awesome torrent.

Once down at Algeria we all felt like we had enjoyed a fine walk, and in spite of my warnings everyone fell into the trap of thinking that we were almost home. In fact, the last five kilometres of the walk were much tougher than expected, and supper and a bottle of wine were most welcome.

Stadsaal Caves

2009-11-20T11:17:00.014+02:00

We awoke to strong winds and ongoing heavy rains! No-one was in the mood for another wet and cold walk, so we enjoyed a lazy morning and delicious lunch prepared by Carla (official expedition chef). Later in the day we travelled to visit the rock art site close to Stadsaal. These paintings were produced by San artists probably over 1,000 years ago. Current theories propose that rock paintings were the work of shamans in the tribe, but perhaps we can plan a dedicated rock-art blog for another time …

From there it was a short drive to Stadsaal cave (City Hall Cave).
Here we are trying not to appear too cold at the entrance to “The City Hall”.

The cave is remarkable for its “architecture” and spaciousness

It is also of great historical interest because of the graffiti which dates back to the 1800’s. It is rumoured that the Nationalist Party members met here to plan their 1948 victory which heralded the start of legislated apartheid. In support of this theory the names of some of the Nationalist Party members of the time are evident as graffiti on the walls, notably the name of Dr D. F. Malan, the then leader of the party and the first Nationalist Prime Minister of South Africa.

But beyond the history and the caves themselves, the area is breathtakingly beautiful as a result of the incredibly eroded rock formations in vibrant reds and browns.

Some of the members of our party kept seeing recognisable shapes amongst the rocks, but all I could see was very beautiful rocks. Perhaps this is simply an accolade for the local Cederberg wines!

… or perhaps that is an enormous ancient petrified red rhino walking by – with just the legs and belly visible…

Some of the rock surfaces seem to have been professionally mosaiced by an artist.

Carla is an artist and she clearly enjoyed the visit,

. . . but Rob had had enough of fine art and aesthetic, and hid away. We found him anyway!

And all the while our nemesis from the previous day (The Wolfberg Cracks) were visible and beautifully framed.

The birthing canal and the roped clamber!

2009-11-18T09:55:00.010+02:00

The truth of the matter is that (a) the weather had deteriorated considerably, and (b) we now encountered certain “challenges”, both of which made photography a little difficult. So although the “walk” became even more “exciting” from this point on, there is a severe paucity of visual evidence to illustrate this.

The first challenge was the roped clamber, which is not high enough to qualify as a climb but which is awkward enough to cause consternation. For this reason I put out a walking rope to provide support and security.
Here you can see Andy and Lyn peering down anxiously as Barbara prepares to make a meal of the clamber, while I lean over to give her some advice. Note the popularity of wet weather apparel!

This was not the most graceful of rock-climbing manoeuvres! As soon as Barbara was within grabbing range, she was collectively manhandled to the top of the clamber accompanied by much laughter and rain.

Ahead lay the “birthing canal”, which was so named some years ago because it involves a narrow squeeze which MUST be negotiated head-first. At the far end of the canal is an enormous chockstone, which demands that the “birther” must twist to face upward and then turn ninety degrees in order to emerge (you really have to do it in order to understand!). On this particular day the birthing canal had filled-up with cold rainwater to a depth of 10 cm. Below you can see Andy attempting rebirth-therapy.

Finally we emerged at the top of the Wolfberg Crack, triumphant and gleeful, but wet.

Perhaps it was the moment of glory that influenced our judgement, but in spite of the deteriorating weather we optimistically decided to continue to the Wolfberg Arch – a dramatic 5-storey-high sandstone arch situated on the plateau. By now visibility had deteriorated even further, but would get even worse.

Eventually the arch was visible and in the cold and wet it was a matter of “we’ve seen it, lets go home”

Most of the party were drenched through in spite of wet weather gear. Everyone was cold in varying degrees, and we still had about two and a half hours of sometimes challenging walking before we could reach the vehicle.
Eventually we made it back to our accommodation and a welcome bottle of local wine and farm food.

2009-11-17T09:46:00.018+02:00

The time had come to move onto the Cederberg (Cedar Mountains), which is a magnificent range of arid mountains situated approximately 200km north of Cape Town and covering an area of 1620 km2. This is a wilderness and conservation area and is still home to wildlife including the rare Cape Leopard.

The walking in the the Cederberg is special and our only concern at this time of year was that northern visitors might struggle with the heat in this rugged area.
Our first scheduled walk was the “iconic” Wolfberg Cracks and Wolfberg Arch and we awoke to thick mist and chilly temperatures. But undaunted we began our approach to “the cracks”.

On the way we saw Cape Sugarbirds (Promerops cafer) which, as you can see from the photo below, are closely associated with Protea species (in this case Protea nitida). Because of this close association, the distribution of this bird species is restricted to the Cape Fynbos of South Africa.

We had opted to ascend the more adventurous crack, which we soon reached. The ascent begins with a short climb through a cave, which Carla and Lyn tackled with style.

Andy did his rabbit-impersonation as he popped out through the keyhole at the top of the cave.

Rather impressed with ourselves and the ease of the first obstacle, we paused for a group photo.

We continued around the corner and onto the dreaded ledge, which caused concern for some – but clearly not for Andy.

We paused once more for a group photo,

Before entering the next cave,

Where we found an insectivorous bat (Microptera species)

Had we known what weather was brewing outside we probably would have elected to remain and socialise with the bat, but in our naiveté we proceeded into the main chamber of the crack, where we found shelter from the rain (but not the cold) while we ate lunch consisting of mystery sandwiches made with door-stopper farm bread.

After lunch we pressed on deeper into the crack. By this time the rainwater was collecting on the surface and dropping in sheets down the sides of the crack.

The crack became narrower and narrower and wetter and wetter as we proceeded.

Ahead lay the dreaded “birthing canal” and “roped clamber”. Watch this space for the next instalment!

Cape Point at last!

2009-11-13T10:47:00.011+02:00

What a day!!!
The scenery was jaw-droppingly beautiful

Lyn did a spectacular balancing act on the edge of the world

And Barbara showed us the way to go (away from the edge)

Once again the flowers were wonderful and we saw many “paper-flowers”

We were amazed by a delicate looking, but clearly very tough Gladiolus

and fascinated by the flower of this parasitic Harveya species

We enjoyed a well deserved lager at the end of the trail . . . with The Mountains In The Sea stretching-out behind us

Watch this space for the story of the Wardman-Downes journey to The Cedarberg mountains.

Rain on Day 4

2009-11-13T08:18:00.008+02:00

Today the day started out rather dismally with strong winds and sheets of horizontal rain.

So we chose a safer route to Smitswinkel Bay – which included a visit to see the penguins

Along the way we had wonderful views and even saw a Southern Right Whale.

We stopped in at Cape Point Cottage (the original) and had lunch there. Although it was a finger lunch, Rob insisted on using as many utensils and as much eating equipment as possible.

At the end Andy & Lyn modelled some of the latest outdoor clothing fashions

The next instalment...

2009-11-10T10:01:00.003+02:00

The 3rd day of “the Mountains In The Sea” Trail is a very easy walk and our team was remarkably chipper when starting off

The wind had come up from the north west and created some dramatic visual effects with cloud draped over The Sentinel

We stopped to inspect the wreck of The Kakapo – a ship which was “wrecked” in 1900. The ship was headed from Cape Town to Australia. In the mist Captain Nicholayson mistook Chapman’s Peak for Cape Point and instructed his crew to steer the ship right onto the Nordhoek beach, where it has remained ever since. In case you collect trivia, some of the scenes from the 1970’s movie “Ryan’s Daughter" were filmed on this beach!

We crossed a tiny stream at the end of the beach . . . and Barbara made such a meal of it that Rob had to go back and help her

We were fortunate to see a Black Eagle flying very low over us. Later we found a tortoise that had had its shell damaged in a fire. Just to prove to us that the shell of a tortoise is in fact alive and vascularised, we found a tick firmly attached

We found some beautiful scarab beetles feeding on (and pollinating) the flowers of a pincushion protea (Leucospermum conocarpodendron)

We enjoyed lunch in an idyllic setting

In fact so idyllic, that some members of the party dozed off

In spite of a wonderful walk, it seemed that everyone was pleased to reach the hotel!

Mountains in the Sea - Day 2

2009-11-06T13:44:00.010+02:00

The weather forecast promised cool temperatures with a stiff breeze, which is exactly what we wanted for the very long challenging walk that awaited us. . . but in fact the day dawned hot and windless and became steadily hotter as the day progressed.

We stopped for a snack on some rocks overlooking Hout Bay

As we progressed, the views of the bay below were picture-perfect

This is vast big-sky country. Wonderful walking with superb vistas

Kili enjoyed a rest in the shade

In fact when the heat became unbearable even the indomitable Lancastrians (and Yorkshireman) took refuge in the shade of a small cave

Close to the end of our walk we came across these gorgeous flowers which look to me like an oil painting of yellow Nemesias

Table Mountain tales

2009-11-05T11:25:00.008+02:00

It was a gorgeous day today on Table Mountain – perhaps a little warmer than was expected by Lyn, Andrew, Barbara and Rob. Nonetheless they made it up to Maclear’s Beacon – the highest point on the mountain.

And back down the other side . . . .

Besides the privilege of seeing a Klipspringer, which is an agile rock-frequenting antelope, we enjoyed plenty of seasonal flowers including some unusual orchid species

And a stunning Moraea neglecta

As well as insectivorous Drosera trinervia

Meanwhile Andrew posed . . . .

It's flower time

2009-10-05T09:03:00.041+02:00

Cape Town is situated within the most bio-diverse plant kingdom in the world, and within a very short distance of the city we have a variety of very different habitats, which experience vastly different climatic conditions. All of these habitats are harsh and the respective plants have adapted to these different degrees of harshness. However in August and September even the plants in the harshest environment put on a show!

I hope that you enjoy the selected flower pictures which I have taken over the past 5 weeks.

KAROO

PENINSULA

WEST COAST

PENINSULA

WEST COAST

Spring is nearly sprung

2009-08-25T10:53:00.010+02:00

Spring is nearly upon us, and what better way to celebrate the lengthening days and warmer temperatures, than with a brisk hike in nature enjoying the return of the sun.

Our spectacular Mountains in the Sea 5-day hike will be taking to the hills soon, and we have a limited number of spaces available on our hike starting Monday 19 October. It will be a lovely time of year to take in the majestic views and vistas, enjoy the fynbos in flower, and maybe even see a late whale or two. Click here for more information http://www.walkinafrica.com/south-africa-mountains-sea.html

We have a welcome new addition to our family of outstanding hikes, and the friendly, hospitable farming community of the Southern Drakensberg/Wartrail area would love to welcome you to their 5 night slack-packing hike through stunning mountain scenery. Fiona McIntosh, the enthusiastic author of the SA Slackpacking Guide, will be hiking the trail from 11 - 15 October, and they would love to have some keen hikers join her. They are offering a special, never to be repeated rate of only R2 895 per person for this hike. When you consider that this includes all your accommodation, meals, passionate guiding, luggage transfers, plus truly spectacular scenery, how can you stay seated at your desk?! Have a look at our website for more details http://www.walkinafrica.com/south-africa-drakensberg.html

Whatever you do, get out and enjoy the sunshine!

Masters of the air

2009-07-20T12:01:00.014+02:00

Black (Verreaux’s) Eagles (Aquila verreauxii) are amongst the largest of Africa’s Eagles. They are always associated with mountainous or hilly terrain ,and the adults are almost always seen as a pair. They are magnificent flyers, often seen floating effortlessly on the air, or at other times plunging spectacularly at high velocity.

Their preferred prey is the rock hyrax (Procavia capensis) and so the distribution of the Black Eagle corresponds closely with that of the rock hyrax.

Although Black Eagles are most commonly associated with inland mountains, we are very fortunate to have at a breeding pair resident in the Cape Peninsula.

Recently, while guiding my Mountains in The Sea Trail, we were thrilled to watch this pair of Black Eagles hunting the hills along the coast. It was incredible to have them drift past at eye level and then pass way below us a little later. It was also quite a unique experience for me to watch them flying out over the sea.

What magnificent birds!

The Jacksons meet the Cape Peninsula Baboons

2009-05-29T08:56:00.015+02:00

Peter & Rayna Jackson come from the UK and they like to walk. So they gave me a comprehensive itinerary and asked whether we could walk it . . . and we did. The following photo-essay captures some of the highlights of the trip.

There was the time when we thought our walking party was going to grow

The most beautiful walk in the world brought out the romantic. No surprise when you are in such stunning surroundings:

Talk about dining “alfresco”

The weather was so lovely even the baboons took the day off and went to the beach!

Ascending the red cliffs was splendid

And we saw more wildlife – quite unconcerned by our proximity

Baboon Matters is a wonderful organisation that tries to minimise conflict between the human inhabitants and the baboons of The South Peninsula. We went on a walk with them to get a better understanding of baboons and their plight on the Peninsula. It was a very special experience to be totally accepted within the troop.

Then there was the epic ascent when the weather turned. Minutes after this photo was taken at the peak, the wisp of cloud in the background had escalated to thick mist and the wind had reached gale force!

And, of course, there are always penguins....

Mountains in the Sea - The last day

2009-04-28T10:51:00.009+02:00

Many people consider the last day of the Mountains In The Sea Trail to be the most spectacular. I reserve judgement on that, but it certainly rates as one of the most beautiful walks in South Africa. The day I guided the Musketts and Barry Gregg on the trail we had a very special surprise indulgence. Soon after starting the trail we came across two of the extremely rare Cape Point Klipspringers.

These remarkable creatures are adapted to living in rocky areas, and are incredibly agile on precipitous cliffs.

We were blessed with exquisite weather. Our first view for the day of the iconic Cape Point was breathtaking, and set the tone for the remainder of the day.

A little later we looked back along the route we had walked and, quite frankly, the view was just as remarkable.

Not long before reaching the end of the trail we watched a Mountain Pride Butterfly (Aeropetes tulbaghia) feeding on a Mountain Pipes flower (Tritoniopsis triticea).

In a later blog I will describe the fascinating ecological significance of this photograph.

Mountains in the Sea - Day Three

2009-03-31T09:36:00.006+02:00

Day three of this Mountains in the Sea Trail dawned cool and misty – too misty for photographs. This was a welcome change from the blistering heat we had experienced the day before. But by the time we had crossed the beach, Chapman’s Peak - our nemesis, was visible and the mist was burning off.

Two hours later and the heat had returned. And so our arrival at Kleinplaas Dam was especially welcome.

Along the route we were treated to the sight of a Blood Flower (Haemanthus species). These intriguing and exquisite flowers from the Daffodil Family survive the harsh dry summer of the Western Cape by allowing all their above ground parts to dry up during this season in order to prevent water loss. Then in the late summer, just before the rains, the vibrant flowers appear – without the leaves. The seeds ripen at the start of the rainy season so that they have the whole of the wet winter in which to germinate and become established. The flat leathery leaves emerge only well after the flowers have finished flowering.

The walk was suitably short and manageable after the challenging walk of the previous day, and to see our destination of Simonstown Harbour below us was very welcome.

Have a careful look at the photo and you will see some of the naval frigates, which have been at the centre of South Africa’s political controversy and upheaval!

Mountains in the Sea - the next instalment

2009-03-06T10:15:00.008+02:00

It was another hot day and Swartkop looked unusually high, so Janet and Tom elected to use their arms instead of their legs for the morning. We paddled ocean kayaks in a stiff wind and choppy sea, from Simonstown around the harbour wall to Boulders Beach, where we saw the penguins.

Then we stopped for a rest and a swim at Seaforth Beach before returning to Simonstown.
Surprisingly, Tom and Janet had not been tired out by the paddle, and so we set off for an afternoon walk. Taking the heat into consideration, I chose a cool forest walk to Cecilia’s Waterfall.

Aside from the beautiful walk we were treated to displays of both South Africa’s previous national flower (Protea repens) . . . . .

. . . and our current national flower (Protea cynaroides)

Mountains in the Sea

2009-02-26T11:31:00.024+02:00

Right now I am walking the length of the Mountains in The Sea with Tom & Janet Muskett. Day two dawned one of those magical days that force me to acknowledge that I live in the most beautiful city in the world. Yes, the weather was warm for walking . . . but the rewards far outweighed the heat.

Fortunately most of the morning was spent walking in shade. The cliffs of Blackburn Ravine were as inspirational as ever.

Views across the bay to the Sentinel

were spectacular.

The sea colour was unbelievable!

In spite of the heat, we eventually made it to the top and had a

well-deserved rest there. The views were more breathtaking than usual (if that can be believed).

When we began our descent we were treated to new views across Long Beach and beyond.

We stopped during the descent in order to appreciate the incomparable views.

Even Kili enjoyed the view!

Walking in the Silvermine Mountains

2009-02-26T10:54:00.012+02:00

Lindsay Young is a really nice guy! He’s enthusiastic about life, humorous and has an infectious delight for the outdoors. So he made for an excellent companion on a recent walk in the Silvermine Mountains. I guess that it helped that Lindsay and Kili got on so well!

Lindsay had chosen this area to walk because he was staying close by and wanted to walk in the hills without a long commute. Most Capetonians who bother walking in Silvermine consider it a good place for a quick stroll. How wrong.

We spent the entire glorious day there, indulged by a variety of different stunning vistas, absorbed by beautiful plants and distracted by a variety of biomes.

Have a look at the pictures . . .

We ascended a few peaks in search of the ultimate view:

There were times when no human structures were visible & it seemed like we were hundreds of kilometres from civilisation.

We were even treated to a unique and special view of Table Mountain and Devils Peak covered in cloud.

Muizenberg's walks

2009-01-27T09:40:00.001+02:00

Muizenberg is famous for its long white beach, warm water and predictable surf. It has a good reputation for ice cream, too. It is also well known for its transition from playground of the wealthy to derelict and, more recently, back to a favoured residential area.

Looking further into the past it is celebrated for the old toll-house and its keeper Sgt Muys (after whom the village is named), as well as The Battle of Muizenberg and the house where Cecil John Rhodes died.

Surprisingly, it is not recognized for the wonderful walks to be had in the area.

Have a look at these photos and tell me what you think!

Pakhuis to Heuningvlei

2008-12-05T10:09:00.018+02:00

It was a beautiful warm, sunny morning as we approached the Pakhuis Pass from Sevilla, with Faith, Hope and Charity silhouetted against the deep blue sky. The pass was built by Thomas Bain, and opened in 1874 to link Clanwilliam with the farming community of Calvinia. Bain also built a 12 km road from the summit of the pass to Heuningvlei or “Honey Valley”. It must be one of the most beautiful walks in the Western Cape. It is now part of the Cederberg Wilderness Area, so the road is closed to motor vehicles and is only accessible by foot or donkey cart.

Initially the road passes through the Table Mountain sandstone group of rocks that have been weathered and eroded into fantastic shapes by wind, rain and ice. Deep purple mesembryanthemums were still flowering on the vleis below the rocky outcrops. Agama lizards lay on the rocks in the warm sunshine, and dassies scuttled to find shade. A pair of black eagles soared on thermals above the crags and a pair of ground woodpeckers called “kee – urr” from the top of a large boulder.

The road climbed steeply uphill, crossing small babbling brooks of cool, clear water, until the summit of the pass, where there was a view of the cultivated fields of Heuningvlei and the bare slopes of Krakadouw, the highest peak in the area. It was possible to take a short cut down a steep path past clumps of pink Watsonia, yellow Wachendorfia and red Kniphofia growing in the damper areas. Large bushes of Leucospernum reflexum, indigenous to the area, with their large deep orange blooms, formed a wonderful contrast as they reached up towards the clear blue sky.

Near the village, which nestles in a valley below the Krakadouw peaks, rows of small Aspalathus linearis bushes with bright green leaves have been planted to be made into rooibos tea, a valuable cash crop to supplement the income from sheep and tourism. Small plots of land just outside the village are used for growing food crops, including sweet corn, beans and onions. Cool, fresh water coming from mountain springs gushes out of a pipe above the cottages. Heuningvlei is a very old village, with many of the stone-built houses dating back to 1820. The thatched roofs are made from restios. Now an outpost of the Wuppertal Mission, it is a delightful, peaceful village. It is a real gem and hopefully will remain so.

The monkey beetle and the daisy

2008-08-29T09:12:00.001+02:00

It was a glorious winter day - twenty one degrees centigrade, clear sky and not a breath of wind. I was strolling along the spine of unique mountains that stretch from Table Mountain to Cape Point having yet another tough day in the office*! The flower season was definitely beginning and I was delighted by the bursts of colour along the path. Predictably for this time of year there were many Babiana villosula or bobbejaantjies – most of them already past their prime. These gorgeous members of the Iris and Gladiolus family are sometimes referred to as baboon bulbs, because Chacma baboons are said to relish eating their bulbs. Personally, I have not seen the local baboons targeting these plants – unfortunately they mostly seem to be perfecting their skills at breaking into motor vehicles and eating sandwiches.

I was especially thrilled to see Babiana ringens in abundance. This striking-looking flower is rather rudely known as rotstert (rat’s tail) in Afrikaans, referring to its hairy, leafless, arched main stem. This species is not usually abundant, but the fire that swept across the south peninsula earlier this year obviously created ideal conditions for it to flourish.

I was stopped in my tracks by a spectacular Arctotis acaulis. This flower is commonly known as the gousblom, but to you and me it is a daisy – one of many hundreds in this family. As I was taking a photo of the flower I noticed that it was hosting a Monkey Beetle – which is visible on the left side of the centre of the daisy in the photo below.

These entertaining beetles belong to a group which is found only in southern Africa. They are small and hairy with conspicuously long hind legs, which they use in combat between one another. These beetles are suckers for the colour yellow and are unable to pass a yellow flower without stopping. Their hairy legs are perfect for collecting and distributing pollen, and these beetles are amongst the most important pollinators of peninsula flowers.

Yellow flowers are an important social meeting place for these beetles and it is here that they meet their mates. Perhaps they are inspired by the romantic venue, because when they eventually do find a suitable mate their sexual indulgence can last up to an hour. Flowers, sunshine and sex in the flowers - life is tough at the southern tip of Africa.

(*) For more about my idea of a tough day in the office have a look at: www.walkinafrica.com/south-africa-mountains-sea.html

Wonderful winter weather in Cape Town

2008-08-21T10:33:00.001+02:00

We have been fortunate to have wonderful late-winter weather in Cape Town.

Earlier this week I was privileged to guide a young honeymoon couple on a full-day Table Mountain walk. John and Sarah Edwards from Oklahoma, USA, came to South Africa on their honeymoon and decided to immerse themselves in Table Mountain for a day.

They are a pretty energetic couple so we decided to “make a meal” of the outing and started on The Atlantic Ocean side ascending through Afro-montane forest onto the back table. We then crossed eastwards passing the dams and ascending to join the famous Smuts’ Track.

Enjoying views to the Hottentots Holland Mountains in the east, we continued to the summit at Maclear’s Beacon (1087m).

We then took the scenic route along the lip of Table Mountain (not for the acrophobic), with great views onto the city bowl and The Lion.

Finally we crossed Gabriel’s Gap and wound back around to the western side of the mountain, where we enjoyed stunning panoramas of the Twelve Apostles and a rewarding view of the route we had taken.

This week I am guiding my iconic 5-day Mountains in the Sea Trail. Watch this space for updates!